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Author Topic: Rainbow dress
Date Posted: 8/23/02 11:10pm Subject: RE: Rainbow dress
OK Ferd,

Episode 2.5: Attack of the Questions
hehe

alright I looked through your explanations, and then your pictures, then your explanations, then your pics, then explanations, then pics, and so on and so forth and finally came up with the following few bits of information I'm unclear on:

1. You said you made three "underdresses" of chiffon and then layered them over the satin underdress, correct? B/c the dress itself doesn't look thick enough for this! And if so, how did you attach the chiffon layers? b/c you wouldn't know from looking that they were separate.

2. How did you make the bow-like tie on the front? It's 100% completely and totally gorgeous! Could you get a close-up of that? It sure looks perfect from a distance! How did you tie it?

3. How did you sew the forearms? I know the over-dress is bunched up and sewn in, but I see an under-layer of satin, I think. Is that just the trim? What did you sew the over-dress to? Just to itself?

4. In Lake_3, the bottom right, I can see the layers of chiffon, I think. There is a light pink layer coming from the back, and a light purple from around the front. These appear to be separate, in fact even a different fabric than the over-dress. Is this the layers of chiffon "underdress"? Under all these layers, I see a light pink satin (at least it looks like satin). Where is this coming from?? ;-)

5. In Lake_4, I can't see any layers of chiffon "underdress" overtop of the yellow satin fabric...where did all the chiffon go?? :-( Is that the seam up the right side of the gown?

6. Finally, in general, how did you dye the fabrics? Did you dye three "chiffon underdresses", separately, in four separate colors? Or did you use the ombre dye technique to get multiple colors on a single piece?

I saw on the boards of the dress you talked about, back in May, that you were making. A poly chiffon version trial-and-error before you tried real silk. Is this dress you made the product of you "trial version"? Are you still planning on a silk one?

I imagine you've already shipped this dress to its buyer, but if you could possibly get a few close-ups, or perhaps a picture without the over-dress, that would be just awesome.

You're incredible, Ferd! I can't believe the work you do, I'm so jealous!!! But I'm a dedicated perfectionist, beginner though I may be, and I'll *make* it work!!! mwa-ha-ha :-D

And one last question to ANYONE (to take the pressure off Ferdy...finally). What is the difference between chiffon and silk chiffon?

thanks!!!
Wendy

 
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 Date Posted: 8/24/02 6:12am Subject: RE: Rainbow dress
Remember the gown that was being offered at eBay some time back? I've just found the "location" after someone posting it over at the Official Site Forum.

Apparently, she used Habotai Silk Overdress and Satin Underdress. Just LYK. wink

 

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Date Posted: 8/24/02 8:31am Subject: RE: Rainbow dress
OK- I will try to explain myself...
First of all my version is 100% poly ( I had intended on possibly doing a version out of silk-but I opted not to and this is why-Silk is a natural fiber and takes dye VERY quickly, my feelings on this dress is that the pastel colors are very subtle, and I didn't want the dress to look dyed, but rather like a light cloud with the colors blending into eachother. Habotai silk is a lesser expensive silk and kind of has the look and feel of lining, I didn't feel that would give the look I was going for.) Silk chiffon runs about $11.00 yd and poly is about $4.50. Poly is more sheer where silk is more "cloudy". I was VERY please with my outcome using POLY and will probably not make a silk version.

Here are the layers of my dress:
DRESS (made of Diamond White matte poly satin)*Diamond white is between white and ivory* I did not dye this at all.
LINING (made of diamond white poly lining) Again not dyed
2 OVERDRESSES (Made of poly chiffon) This was originally white-I dyed it all yellow, then gradually dyed it from pale pink to darker pink from the waist to the hem.)
Front DRAPE PIECE (this was made from a 118" wide piece of white chiffon) This was dyed yellow--then dyed pink, mauve, lavender, blue-gray according to the color placement in the pictures.
BACK DRAPE (same as front, but slightly smaller piece)
Gauntlets/Arm Pieces (Made out of poly sports knit with slight lycra for tight fit. This was white and I dyed it yellow.
I used RIT dyes (rose pink, country blue, yellow, mauve) and Dye-It lavender and purple
I also used Baby blanket satin binding for the edging ( I dyed this variegated from the different pastel colors)

My Dress (underdress, lining, and 2 overdresses) had these seams. Two darts at bust, 2 side seams, and back seam with invisible zipper over butt happy
I made the satin dress and stitched all seams but back one, same for both overlayers and lining. I layered both dyed overlayers on top of satin dress (right sides up) then I basted top edge. I put in zipper and finished back seam. I then finished top edge by sewing lining to dress wrong side down and flipping it to the inside, then stitching it to zipper tape on the inside.
I then made the front drape that was kind sewn in "on point" I basted it to the neckline, I hemmed all the edges, and sewed the binding to the top edges that I call the "wings" (these are the pieces that attach to the arm pieces)Top basted part has to be inserted into the neckline finished seam. The edge that is not the bottom hem, but not the satin edged one, gets machine gathered (this will be attached to the arm pieces) The back drape and bustle is done very similar (maybe I can scan in a drawing)
As far as the front part--I just hand gathered it to the best of my ability, keeping the hem straight--I tried to make it look like a rosette. I tied it up with a piece of lavender organza ribbon (I thought an ornament would be to heavy on the front)

Anyways---hope that helps out a little--sorry to be so wordy.... happy Ferd

 

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Date Posted: 8/29/02 10:06am Subject: RE: Rainbow dress
Hi everybody!! I'm new, but I've been watching this board for awhile now, and I'm so ready to make this drees. I love a lot of your guys dresses that you've made, and I'm all excited to start making it!!! Hopefully the clothing class that I'm enrolled in will help me! I'm just going to have to wait and see, hehe!!

 

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Date Posted: 9/5/02 3:00pm Subject: RE: Rainbow dress
Hi everyone! Been a little quiet in this thread recently. happy

Ferdalump, I have a question for you-- when you were dyeing the fabric, what did you do with the fabric between dye baths? You dyed it all yellow in the machine, then did you just take it, wet, to the pink dye bath, or let it dry first? And after the pink/mauve bath, when you were going to the purple, did you do anything between, like rinse it in cold water, or let it dry, or something? How does RIT dye get set, anyway?

Hmmm. Well, that turned out to be more than one question. ;-) But any answers are MUCH appreciated!

Caitlin

 

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Date Posted: 9/5/02 3:03pm Subject: RE: Rainbow dress
I also have a question for you, Ferd. I was wondering...how did you anchor the top of the train to the back of the gown? Meaning: Is the drapey part, the overdress, removable? Or is it anchored to the underdress itself? Or am I totally lost?

Thanks,

Kate

 

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Date Posted: 9/5/02 3:46pm Subject: RE: Rainbow dress
OK-I'll try to answer your questions happy
The dyeing- I dyed it yellow and then dryed it in the dryer. Then I mixed the rose pink dye in the machine and dipped the fabric (which I already dampened with water) into the dye in the areas I wanted that color. RIT takes about 30 mins to dye-but I kept "working" the fabric up and down to kind of get it even. While it was soaking I mixed the next shade (mauve) in a bucket and I moved the still wet fabric to the next dye bath (obviously not dyeing the same areas) then I would keep doing this until it was done (Make sense confused )
You have to BE VERY careful,especially with the darker colors that say the purple doesn't get on the yellow areas. I then let it dry in the suspension contraption I built outside to let it air dry. Then I heat set it in the dryer, then I rinsed it in cold water and re-dried it.

For the back "bustle" YES it is attached to the dress. My whole dress is one piece except for the necklace and arm pieces. The underdress is a layer of lining, satin, 2 dyed overdresses and then the "wings" as I call them. From the back the piece is attached to the left of the invisible zipper that opens just beneath the plunging back (over the butt blush ) then the two respective sides attach to the arm pieces
I did tack up the drapes up some by hand to look like a bustle.

If this is not clear PLEASE let me know and I will be happy to help you out some more.
happy Ferd

 

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Date Posted: 9/6/02 8:19am Subject: RE: Rainbow dress
Excellent, thank you! So you *can* dry poly chiffon in the dryer-- I was wondering. happy High heat, low heat-- does it matter?

 

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Date Posted: 9/6/02 8:50am Subject: RE: Rainbow dress
Yes you can. I would recommend medium heat, and I would put a towl or something in there with it. You get a lot of static-so throw in a dryer sheet as well. If your dryer is too hot you can get the fabric kinda melted up against the back.
Good Luck! Ferd happy

 

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Date Posted: 9/19/02 9:42pm Subject: RE: Rainbow dress
I'm disappointed that everyone has
completely ignored my questions so
here I am posting my thoughts again..

Has anyone else noticed the 'scarf'
of fabric in the front that is connected
from the halter piece to the metallic
piece? It is visibly a seperate piece
when she is walking with anakin and is a
different gradient in the p-19 video (on
the form).

I also think there are two metallic pieces:
one in the front at the hem instead of the
knot and one in the back at the top of the
bustle.

they look like three connected circles
in the shape of a triangle.. the one
in the front pointed up and the one in
the back pointed down. They are very light
weight and are probably pinned on.

Here is an image I made to illustrate

 
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 Date Posted: 9/20/02 7:12am Subject: RE: Rainbow dress
afaeryschild, I could be completely insane, but it looks to me like the bit of fabric you're seeing as a separate scarf might actually be the result of a bunching effect. I think that since the center piece of fabric is bunched at the bottom with the clip you mention, it stays in a bunch all the way to the top of the neckline. In the shots you posted, when the dress is backlit this bunched up section reads as a separate piece because the bunched fabric is less translucent than the rest of the dress.
That's my read on it anyway...

-sg

 

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Date Posted: 9/20/02 8:24am Subject: RE: Rainbow dress - Date Edited: 9/20/02 8:24am (1 edits total) Edited By: afaeryschild
Thanks Surlygirlie for coming to my rescue!!

I can see what you are saying about the
bunching effect, and it might work. I just
have never seen such well behaved bunching
that sticks in one place constantly like a
scarf or seperate piece of fabric would.
When she is walking this one section or
scarf moves perfectly and does not change
shape.

If I ever get to this dress, (taking a break
from my picnic dress due to real life) I will
have to experiment with the front for ages.

Thanks again!! happy happy happy

 
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 Date Posted: 9/20/02 8:33am Subject: RE: Rainbow dress
I think the weight of the clasp is probably what keeps it in such uniform shape -- the force pulling down is such that the fabric doesn't have any slack to balloon at the sides at all.


-sg

 

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Date Posted: 9/20/02 11:38am Subject: RE: Rainbow dress
Sorry afaeryschild sad I didn't mean to ignore your question. This may be too late now, but SG pretty much summed up my take on the whole "scarf" theory. I don't see it as a seperate piece, more just the illusion of one because of the draping and weight of the fabric in the front. This dress is VERY puzzling, and with all those layers of all that fabric it can be difficult to figure out where it all comes from and where it all connects. Not saying I figured it out--but if I can help you any further please let me know. You can PM me, or post here--I've been off of the boards a lot lately due to Halloween sewing-but do check as often as I can. happy Ferd

 

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Date Posted: 10/6/02 9:41pm Subject: RE: Rainbow dress
Hi guys! *dragging thread up to top*

I'm once again here to ask for help! I'm taking a "Costume Design for the Theater" class this semester, and I've settled on doing this dress as my final project. I decided on this one (as opposed to the eighteen million other costumes I want to make!) because of its complexity-- I'll be getting lots of help from our instructors.

Right now, I need to convince the instructors that it's OK to use poly chiffon for this dress. I know for a fact that they're going to want me to use silk chiffon, but I really don't think it has the right look. It seems too shiny-- I believe this dress was done in silk chiffon (someone, please correct me if I'm wrong). They're already going to be wary of the complex dye job, and then when they hear I'm trying to dye polyester-- oy, it won't be pretty. So if anyone can help me construct a good argument as to why I should use poly chiffon (especially if they can give evidence of successfully dyeing it), that would be *wonderful*. FERDALUMP, I know you've been able to dye your poly chiffon to wonderful effect, and if anyone has a similar story, that'd be awesome.

And hey, if one of you has a convincing counter-argument, I'd love to hear that, too. Certainly using silk chiffon would make the dyeing easier.

Thanks so much, guys!

 

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