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Author Topic: Rainbow dress
Date Posted: 7/11/07 1:19pm Subject: RE: Rainbow dress
Thought I'd post one more picture of my gown. A friend of mine finally found it on Rebel Scum. grin Yay. grin

Here it is

Too bad my boyfriend's computer won't let me do the images instead of the links. tongue

~Spacelady

 

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Date Posted: 7/11/07 1:26pm Subject: RE: Rainbow dress
Beautiful, Spacelady! I love how the colors just blend so perfectly. happy

 

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 Date Posted: 7/11/07 5:20pm Subject: RE: Rainbow dress
JainaMSolo posted:
My newest tape, which I really quite like (hurts much less coming off!) I found in the lingerie department at Macy's. Pricey, but worth it.


This sounds like a much better idea than double-sided carpet tape, although I have to say that only irritated the skin for about a day afterwards, and no scars, not a month like poor Benae-Quee! (whoa)

JainaM, what is the name of it? And is it called "lingerie tape" or?

(I haven't done this costume, I used tape for another costume)

 

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Date Posted: 7/11/07 11:47pm Subject: RE: Rainbow dress
I don't know the name offhand, and I'm actually in Europe right now on business so I can't check. happy I get home in a week, so I can tell you then. I'm pretty sure it came in a flat rectangular package that was pink, and it came in shaped pieces-- some were short rectangles, and I think there are also some curved pieces as well.

 

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Date Posted: 7/12/07 5:18am Subject: RE: Rainbow dress
Jaina, was it 'Hollywood' tape? That's what I get from Joanne's. I usually just buy the little strips, but the variety pack (which is really cool) has curved strips and really wide pieces that hold a long time. They seem to work well!

 

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Date Posted: 7/12/07 9:31am Subject: RE: Rainbow dress
I got mine at Macy's like you suggested. I forgot the name but I found it on the racks in front of the cash register.

 

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Date Posted: 7/19/07 9:51am Subject: RE: Rainbow dress
Okay, I'm home, and I was wrong about the packaging being pink. It's white, and the brand name is Fashion Forms: Dress & Lingerie Tapes. There are 3 pair each of straight and curved tapes and it retailed for $6.

 

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Date Posted: 8/12/07 7:54pm Subject: RE: Rainbow dress - Date Edited: 8/12/07 7:55pm (1 edits total) Edited By: JainaMSolo
I had some time on my hands recently, so I started doing a more detailed analysis of Kristen's pictures of the rainbow dress from the NYC runway show back in 2005. I hope I'm not duplicating effort here; I checked every relevant thread I could think of, plus Padawan's Guide. Anyway, here are my observations, mostly pertaining to the underdress, and I welcome comments, corrections, or thoughts. I would especially love to hear from people with good draping/construction knowledge-- the fabric is definitely hanging in some interesting ways near the seams, and I know it's saying something about the grain and angle, but I don't know enough to decipher it.

(Just a warning- these linked pictures are cropped, but still full-res, so they're quite large.)

According to DAG, the dress is made of bias-cut silk chiffon and sanded charmeuse, or something to that effect. Whether the overdress is on the bias is a subject for another day, but I'm quite certain that these pictures confirm that the underdress is on the bias. At any rate, have a look-- you can clearly see that there are two triangular extensions on the bottom of the front panel, one on the left and one on the right. Green arrows indicate the regular vertical seam, red arrows indicate the angled extension seams:






I'm pretty sure those angled seams are what you get when you can't fit the whole bias panel on your width of fabric. Well, you'd get it on one side, anyway; I'm guessing they just mirrored it on the other side so it would look even. This also makes me think that the front panel of the dress is all one piece-- ie, there's no waist or empire seam. If there were, they should've been able to fit the whole panel on one width, and they wouldn't have needed extension pieces. However, there really are no good pictures of the bodice of the dress, because it's always covered by the overdress, so I can't say for sure.

I also think there's a gore/godet/thingie inserted at each of the side seams, probably starting at the waist, which could account for the extreme fullness of the skirt. Check this seam out-- it's not the front panel seam seen above (you can see that seam on the right of the picture). It could also possibly be the CB seam, although I think that's less likely; but the dress is rather swishy, and even just in these pictures, the seams move all over the place. The new seam is arrowed in blue; the other seams are green and red as before:



Assuming I'm correct and that is a gore, it looks to be quite large. In the next picture you can see a bit of the right front panel/gore seam, but nothing else:



Sadly, we can't really tell anything about the top of the dress, as it's always covered by the overdress. We *can* see that the model was a bit bigger than Natalie-- the dress rides higher in the back, and she's, er, kind of busting out of the top, so the bust and/or waist of the dress must be quite small and fitted:



There's also this still from one of the makings-of, which gives a little overall shape information:



I've actually never made a bias-cut dress before, so I don't really know how the top could be shaped to the bust/waist-- any thoughts?

That's pretty much all I've got for the underdress. So, my best guess for now is that it's a bias-cut dress with a front panel, a back panel (possibly split in two up the CB, I don't know), two side gores, and two front extensions.

Other random observations from the pictures-- you can see that the overdress doesn't actually close around the upper arm, and the outer edge of the binding doesn't close around the wrist (can't tell if the inner edge does):



Also, the overdress "sleeve" really does seem to have some structure to it-- maybe the gathers are stitched to some very light boning or something? If there's some sort of gauntlet or undersleeve there, it definitely doesn't go all the way up the arm:



And that's it! I hope it made at least some sense. Again, I welcome any comments, corrections, or general thoughts. happy

 

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Date Posted: 8/15/07 11:44am Subject: RE: Rainbow dress
Very good analysis. happy

However, I was thinking back to what I did for CIV when I wore this gown, and I know, my versions have been far from the real thing, but we don't really know if the "sleeve" closes around the wrist, and maybe there is something in the gathering to give it structure. But, would it be at all possible that they used Costume Tape to hold it in place, along with the structure of the sleeve?

~Spacelady

 

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 Date Posted: 8/15/07 12:23pm Subject: RE: Rainbow dress
Lady_Elu posted:
Very good analysis. happy

However, I was thinking back to what I did for CIV when I wore this gown, and I know, my versions have been far from the real thing, but we don't really know if the "sleeve" closes around the wrist, and maybe there is something in the gathering to give it structure. But, would it be at all possible that they used Costume Tape to hold it in place, along with the structure of the sleeve?

~Spacelady


I hope not, that model's arms are a bit hairy *ouch* lol.
I noticed it while I was studying the photos a few weeks ago and wondered if maybe there was a type of bracelet structure on the inside. Maybe the model has a skinnier wrist than Nat so you really notice the gap.

 

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Date Posted: 8/15/07 1:58pm Subject: RE: Rainbow dress
Oh argh, I made a mistake in one of my picture links-- this should be the correct picture:

"Assuming I'm correct and that is a gore, it looks to be quite large. In the next picture you can see a bit of the right front panel/gore seam, but nothing else:



 

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Date Posted: 9/30/07 12:02am Subject: RE: Rainbow dress - Date Edited: 9/30/07 12:04am (2 edits total) Edited By: JainaMSolo
Yay! After *mumblemumble* years, I finally finished the construction/making-of page for my rainbow dress! It is here.

 

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Date Posted: 10/14/07 2:43pm Subject: RE: Rainbow dress
How did everyone do the gathering at the sleeves? I am thinking of doing a zigzag stitch and using elastic thread, stretching as I sew. Thoughts?

 

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Date Posted: 10/14/07 5:49pm Subject: RE: Rainbow dress
Great job, Jaina. Thanks so much for sharing. happy


princessleia -- Zigzag with elastic sounds about right. 2 rows of long stitches close together might work, as well (at least, that's what I'm planning on doing).

 

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Date Posted: 10/15/07 10:58am Subject: RE: Rainbow dress
This is going to sound real silly, I bet, but since we're briefly on the gathering topic, um...could anyone tell me how to do it...? blush I've looked through sewing books and even after four years of sewing...I still don't know how to. sad

~Spacelady

 

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